Knysna (5-11)

Monday I traveled on to Knysna, a two-hour bus ride. Before leaving, I managed to squeeze in a massage. The spa had been closed late Saturday afternoon and Sunday; so I knew I was taking a chance that they’d have an opening when I arrived Monday morning and I was lucky. It was a good way to start the day. Cost: 300 rand/$21.

In Knysna, my guesthouse was across from the lagoon, which is one thing Knysna is noted for. My room opened to the common balcony; so I had a nice view of the lagoon from inside and outside. 

After relaxing for a few hours, I decided to walk to town—about 2 km—for dinner. The first restaurant I came to is on the waterside, and I caught the sunset as I arrived, my first in South Africa. 

Dinner was ostrich fillet. The woman I was sitting next to when I had the ostrich burger in Stellenbosch had told me I should have a fillet, too, and promised that I would like it. She was correct; it was delicious. I can’t really describe the taste, but the texture is like steak. It came with pineapple, spinach, zucchini, carrots, and sweet potato spring rolls, which made it all the better.

Tuesday I took a tour to the Featherbed Nature Reserve, which is on the end of an island in the lagoon. We were told that the lagoon is really a river estuary, but local people like to call it a lagoon.  The story about the name Featherbed is that once a man slept on the sandy beach and said it was like sleeping on a featherbed. 

When crossing the lagoon, we had beautiful views toward the Krysna Heads, two bluffs on the sides of the river where it meets the Indian Ocean. I didn’t realize that’s what the Heads were until later when we were standing at the top of a bluff and I asked if we looking at the Krysna Heads. 

We were looking across the river at one head and standing on the other.

The tour included about a hundred people in three tour groups plus a few of us on our own, but we were divided into two groups when we arrived on the island. Then we were conveyed to the top in two long 4X4 vehicles that had sections hitched together like a train. Occasionally we had a view of the lagoon and the opposite Head and ocean when the vegetation cleared briefly. 

From the top, we walked down 2.2 km back to the restaurant and pier. The trail descended through the forest where I enjoyed the trees 

and plants, some of which had flowers. 

There were two side trails to beautiful views. The first looked down on the Head and the Indian Ocean. 

The second went to two caves through which we could view the ocean. 

One sign pointed out a bucha plant from which the tea I had sampled in Stellenbosch is made. It was a lovely walk and a lovely day to be doing it.

At the restaurant there was a buffet lunch which was included in the tour if you paid for it. Although it was pricey, I figured I might as well eat because otherwise I’d be waiting while others ate. It was a first class buffet. My favorite dishes were the ostrich mince pie and a lentil dish. There were also beef, chicken, and fish along with squash, potatoes, and salad. Dessert was also included: ice cream with dark chocolate sauce laced with liquor, Malva pudding (British-style pudding, which is more like a sponge cake), and another delicious item. Since it was after 2:00 when we reached the restaurant, that was my main meal of the day. It was a good one.

All in all, the outing was fantastic, and I was glad the guesthouse manager had suggested it.

Wednesday I was leaving on the 2:15 bus. I thought about hiring a taxi to go to the overview for the West Head, the one we were standing on, so I could view it. And I thought about asking the man to call a boat company to see if they had anything going out. But I wasn’t really enthused about either and I was feeling a bit lethargic. So I hung out in the guesthouse till check out time (10:00) and then went for a walk the other direction—away from town—along the lagoon. By that time the day was pleasant, and I enjoyed walking along the water. When I came to a road with a sign to The Point, I decided to go there, thinking there might be a café where I could sit and have some tea, but there were only guesthouses. However, as I was looking at the view outside one guesthouse, the manager came and invited me to sit on the deck and then gave me tea. The view across the lagoon was lovely and peaceful. 

And I saw several sacred ibis in the grass. (I did have to ask what it was.) I was familiar with the ibis from Egyptian mythology but didn’t realize they also came to southern Africa; so it was fun to see one. It was a lovely interlude to the morning.

As I was walking, I decided to return to the restaurant where I’d had the ostrich fillet to have their calamari for lunch and to enjoy sitting along the waterfront. Since it’s near the bus stop, it was also a convenient place to hang out until time to leave Knysna. I had the calamari steak with oyster sauce which came with rice and a nice salad. The calamari was about half an inch thick; I didn’t know calamari came so thick. It was a delectable treat for my last day on the coast.