Saturday
I had a private tour around the peninsula to Cape Point. It was a beautiful day
with sunshine and blue sky. The mountains and sea were stunning. On the way we
made several photo stops at scenic places.
A longer stop was at Hout Bay, which
was much livelier since it was morning and it was a weekend with good weather.
I
took the boat to see Seal Island, a nice 40-minute trip.
It was especially fun
to see some of the seals having fun in the water. Many vendors were there
selling their goods. Since the wind was fierce and cold, I purchased a scarf
that kept me much warmer the rest of the day. I also bought a South African
doll and a bead necklace that were made in a local township.
Continuing along the beautiful coast,
we stopped briefly at Camel Rock. Oscar, the driver, told me that he had only
recently learned about this rock from a tourist who had read about it in a tour
guide. Someone thought it looked like a camel and gave it that name. Since the
only camels in the area are brought from the Sahara region for tourists, it
seems strange to have a rock named after a camel here.
Another
brief stop was to look at the marker marking the place where Vasco da Gama
first set foot on the continent. It was marked with a flag when he arrived to
claim the land, and then had other markers; so they know where he first stepped
on land. There is also a marker for Bartholomew Diaz’s first landing spot on
the Atlantic side. We saw it but didn’t stop.
In one
place, there were a several wild ostriches along the roadside. My first wild animals
here.
A
longer stop was at the Cape of Good Hope, the southwestern-most point of the
continent. When I was reading about the Cape, this was new information to me,
as we had learned that it is the southern-most place on the continent. I guess
information has been corrected to be more accurate. Oscar took the obligatory
photo at the sign,
and then I walked up to the view point and the top of the
bluff.
Since it was such a lovely day, the views were beautiful. The wind,
however, was so harsh that sometimes it was challenging to stand and it was
often difficult to hold the camera still.
We went
to Cape Point, but, since it was almost 3:00, I decided that I didn’t need to
take the funicular to the top of the bluff, as I figured the views wouldn’t be
that different from those at the Cape of Good Hope and I wanted to get on to
the penguins. So I just ate a quick lunch and we moved on.
Boulders
Penguin Colony was great fun. It is home to about 2000 African Penguins, called
such because they are the only species that breeds in Africa. These are the
same penguins I saw at the aquarium, but it’s always more fun to see them in
their natural environment. However, I was glad I’d been to the aquarium and
learned about the dots on their chests, as it was fun to pay attention to that
feature.
Near the beginning of the walkway there were a number of man-made
shelters for nests, one of which had a penguin in it.
Many
were in nests with young ones, usually a pair of them, and some also had eggs.
Both males and females take care of the young and eggs. At the aquarium I
learned that the only way to tell if a bird is male or female is to do a
genetic test since there are no distinguishing characteristics. One would be
with the young ones, and the other hung around nearby, as they mate for life.
One penguin took dead plants to add to the nest.
Some nests are shallow,
while
others are deep holes in the sand.
It was
fun to watch them waddle around. Occasionally, there would be a braying sound
which the penguins make. For this reason, they were once called Jackass
Penguins.
When I
finished watching the penguins, it was time to head back to the guesthouse. Again
the views along the coastal road were gorgeous.
Sunday
morning I joined a small group Gospel Township Tour, which was a walking tour
in Langa, a township near the city, that began with a visit to a church. I
hadn’t realized that there are many townships, as people refer to “the
township,” as in explaining that goods are made in the township. Our group
included people from the Netherlands, Sweden, and Belgium. The guide, who is
from a township, explained that the word township means a town people were shipped
to when they were removed from District 6 to be segregated.
The townships have
a variety of housing. On the outskirts there are single houses that are owned
by people who have jobs and money but want to continue to live in the township.
There are rent-to-own apartments.
There is government-provided housing in overcrowded
apartment buildings.
On the edge of the town and outside the town are
unofficial houses, which are tin or wooden huts that people put up because they
want the privacy of their own place rather than living in the overcrowded
government housing. These are what is seen from the highways and what are often
known as shanty towns and is the image I had of townships.
Church
is a central part of life in the townships, and there are many churches. Each
church has an individual uniform that some people wear to church. We visited
the African Methodist church, the colors of which are black, red, and white.
The men wear a black suit with a white shirt and a red vest. Women wear a white
hat and have a red blouse if they are married or a white blouse if they are not
married and a large collar in the other color.
We went
to the first part of the church service because it features the choir and a lot
of singing. Sometimes the congregants stood and moved to the music; sometimes
they sat. The songs seemed to be Bible verses, as a chapter and verse were
projected on the screen so people could follow along in their Bibles. Some read
as the choir sang. I can’t say I was as moved by the singing as I have been by
gospel singing in the U.S. and in Ompundja, but it was an interesting
experience. When we left the church, a man came out to speak to us and pass
around an envelope in which we could make a contribution.
Then a
local guide took us on a walking tour around part of the town. He moved to the
township from the country when he was 16. Now he is unemployed; so guiding
tourists is his work; in other words, he works for tips. He asked us to
purchase large bags filled with small bags of chips to hand out to the children
as a contribution to the people. As we approached the building in which we
would visit a room, he told the children to gather for chips. Word spread
quickly, and there was a good crowd when we came out of the building. More children
ran up to us as we walked through that area.
The
building we visited is government-provided housing. Sixteen families live in
the building that formerly housed sixteen men when it was a men’s dormitory.
There is a common room that is shared and becomes a bedroom at night. There is
a common kitchen, but it is now used for storage; so each room has a microwave
and hotplate for cooking. The families in the building share one bathroom. The bedroom
we visited is for three families. There are three beds, and suitcases for their
clothes are stored above them. Parents and babies sleep on the beds. Some beds
have two mattresses, one of which is put on the floor for young children and
older girls to sleep on. Boys over age thirteen sleep in the common room.
On the
way back to the city, we went past two monuments. The first is a monument to
seven boys who were beaten to death. The other is to a white girl who was
killed because she was walking in the township at night. She had been there as
an exchange student and had returned to do something to help the township, and
some young men killed her because she didn’t belong there and shouldn’t have
been there. Now there is a foundation in her name, and the men who killed her
work for the foundation.
When we
returned to the city, I had the guide drop me off downtown rather than at the
guesthouse so I could catch a Hop-on Hop-off bus to the Table Mountain cableway,
as I needed to do it on Sunday and it would save a lot of time to start from
downtown rather than from the guesthouse. I was surprised how close it was to
downtown, as I’d thought it would take a lot more time to get there. Purchasing
a cable car ticket on the bus is recommended to avoid standing in line. That
was a great move, as there was virtually no line for ticket holders, and I was
in a cable car within ten minutes of arriving. I was also fortunate to get a
place by the window so I could thoroughly enjoy the views on the way up. The
floor of the cable car rotates 360o while the car ascends and descends;
so you get to see all around while standing in one place.
This
was a perfect day to be on top of the mountain: the sun was shining and the
wind wasn’t blowing. Being there was a magnificent experience. The views are,
of course, stunning; so it was especially nice that it was such a clear day. I
felt really lucky after being on top of so many mountains in China and not
seeing the view below. I did the loop walk around that part of the mountain
top. It includes views of the city and bay on one side
and of the mountain and
bay on the other side.
After
two hours at the top of the mountain, it was time to head down. The line to the
cable car was 40-minutes long. Then the bus trip back to my bus stop took
another 40 minutes. At least only one direction was long. Since it was Sunday
and was a beautiful evening, the beaches were full of people enjoying the park
areas. When I got off the bus, I stayed on the beach path as long as I could.
On the street I took inland, I came to a restaurant and decided to have a good
dinner. I chose pan-fried sardines that came with a baked potato. Both were
delicious.
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