Lesotho (5-15)

Saturday morning we had a brief look at the game resort we had stayed at. It is along a river, which was peaceful. We regretted not having more time to relax there, but such is life. On the way out, we saw some wildebeests, giraffes, an ostrich, hartebeests, and a few zebras that live in the resort’s game park. They have a tame giraffe that people can pay a little to interact with, but we didn’t get to meet it.

It was another long driving day—11 hours. We left at 7:00 and went over mountains and across high plains with mountains in the distance. We stopped at a supermarket for an hour so we could pick up snacks and they could purchase food for the next couple days.

 We stopped for lunch, which was prepared at a wayside picnic area. A table was set up and people got busy cutting veggies for salad and sandwiches since they knew this routine. There was also sliced ham, and the cook purchased a chicken bologna for me.

At 4:00 we crossed the border into the Kingdom of Lesotho, which I learned is pronounced “Lesootoo.” Matt told us that we would quickly notice a difference between South Africa and Lesotho Houses and shops just across the border were metal huts similar to those in townships. He informed us that Lesotho is one of the poorest countries in Africa with about 25% of the population being below the poverty level. It also has a high –25%—incidence of HIV/AIDS. Having altitudes completely above 1000 meters, the country is one of the highest in the world, and it has the highest low point—1400 meters—of any country in the world. It was a long, but lovely drive (until dark), and we were very glad to arrive at our destination.

Since Lesotho is a mountainous country, it was very cold when we arrived. All of the campers requested upgrades so they could have a room. The lodge’s rooms have wall heaters, which really helped. The shower has hot water. The bed has warm blankets; so sleeping was comfortable. The generator for electricity is on only from 5:00 PM to 9:30 PM. The rooms have a candle, which was handy when the light went out.

When we awoke Sunday morning, we realized how beautiful the lodge’s location is with mountains in all directions. At 7:30 the sun was shining and it was already starting to get warm. Walking around before our late—8:30—breakfast, I came across a labyrinth made from beer bottles.  It couldn’t have a more beautiful location. After breakfast a local young man led us on a guided walk around Malealea village. Matt had told us that the lodge is the main income for the village. Among other things, income from its guests has provided funds to build the schools. Matt said people are very welcoming to the tourists walking around their village because they appreciate how much it has helped their village.

The village has about 500 residents. Most of the adults work for the lodge. Some men leave to work in Lesotho’s diamond mine. Most young adults leave for jobs elsewhere. Our guide finished high school but did not have money for university. The school system is set up like that in Namibia—learners in grades 1-7 go to the primary school and those in grades 8-10 go to the secondary school. Those in grades 11 and 12 go to upper secondary school in town, which is 2.5 hours away. Also similar to Namibia, the government provides all school supplies, but families must pay for uniforms. Breakfast and lunch are provided.

Houses vary from stone rondavals 

to rectangular houses made from stones 

or cement blocks along with a few brick houses. The guide said cement blocks are very expensive. 

Some houses are covered with stucco on one or all sides to make the walls stronger. 

Many houses are very basic, but there are also some very nice houses in the village. 

In the early part of the walk where houses are concentrated, a group of children gathered to watch us. Some of our people had oranges to give to the school and decided to give them to these children. 

Adults watched us, too. Most adults are wrapped in a blanket.

The main crops are maize, sorghum, peas, and beans. People also grow cabbage and spinach. 

They raise sheep and goats to sell the wool.

We stopped at a house where a woman makes beer. Beer makers buy the hops from elsewhere and made the beverage in their homes. They have a yellow flag that is up when the beer is ready.

We also visited the primary school. 

Even though it was Sunday, a teacher came to talk to us and twelve learners were sitting at the desks. When we went shopping on Saturday, we were asked to purchase supplies to donate to the school if we wanted to; all of us purchased something. The teacher also mentioned that we could make donations and sign the book stating how much we had donated, and many of us did that.  

One of the school’s buildings serves as a church on Sundays. The service starts at 11:30, and a bell rings to announce the start of church. We saw several women dressed up going to church.

We also stopped at two shops that sell locally made handicrafts. Money is used to help people in the village, especially those with AIDS.

It was a really informative walk, and I enjoyed chatting with our guide.

After lunch, Anke and I took a horse ride to see Bushman rock paintings of Tohlang. Four others hiked to a waterfall. The horse ride was easy, as the horses know to walk slowly and the guide led mine most of the time. 

We rode for 45 minutes enjoying the beautiful scenery—fields with the mountains in the distance. 

Then our guide stayed with the horses, and we were passed on to a 13-year-old girl who led us down the canyon cliff for half an hour 

to the rock paintings. 

On the way we stopped at a natural cave from which we could yell something and have an echo return it. We had fun doing that. 

The man at the lodge told us that the river is a tributary of the Orange River and the Bushmen moved to the area about 300 years ago. So the paintings aren’t very old, but they were interesting. The girl guiding us wasn’t able to tell us much; either she doesn’t know the story of the paintings or can’t talk about them in English, which was too bad because we really didn’t know what we were seeing other than old paintings. It would have been helpful to have the written description the man gave us when I asked for information to know what to look for and ask her about to see if she could point out the pictures mentioned. Oh, well. It explained that the main animals are eland, a sacred animal for the San Bushmen and that most of the people are hallucinogenic images from the shaman. 

Our time viewing the paintings was rather rushed, as we had to walk back up the cliff to join our guide and horses for the ride back. It was so peaceful riding along the fields in the afternoon light.

In the evening the local choir and band performed traditional Basotho music. Both did a song about HIV/AIDS, one to tell teenagers to have only one partner to avoid the diseases and the other to tell them to be careful and to take care of themselves.

Monday we started at 7:15 to return to South Africa. We exited from the other side of the country, and the scenery was especially beautiful. Of course, since we drove mostly in the dark on the way in to Lesotho, we couldn’t compare the scenery of the two parts of the country. An hour after starting we went through “the gate to paradise,” an especially beautiful area. We were able to have a photo stop there. 

The mountain scenery continued to be beautiful as we descended the mountains. At 9:45 we reached the border and walked across a river to South Africa.